PanaTimes

Wednesday, Feb 08, 2023

ester manas runway paris fashion week womenswear f w 2022 2023

7 Emerging Designers to Know from Paris Fashion Week

From quintessential French chic to gothic experimentalism.

In recent years, New York has stood out as the fashion capital that offers emerging designers a major platform, but after this season, it's become clear that Paris has its own share of new talent to display. The Paris Fashion Week that just wrapped put an unusual focus on young designers, with many new names added to the official calendar. In between shows from the major brands, we were able to see everything from upcycled beadwork to presentations that verged on performance art. Here, seven of our favorite emerging designers from the fall 2022 collections.

Germanier


Kevin Germanier may have launched his namesake label in only 2018, but it's already been worn by stars like Lady Gaga, Kristen Stewart, and Björk. His work is recognizable, that's for sure: Flashes of intricate, colorful beading line the surface of corsets and miniskirts. The designer sources his beads as leftovers from other design houses and upcycles them into his creations.

For fall 2022, the label hosted its first-ever runway show at the Cristal Room Baccarat, the Paris flagship of the two-centuries-old glassworks company—a perfect fit for the label's aesthetic. Along with more over-the-top pieces, he also presented sequined dresses, tailored skirts, and feathered tops.


Ester Manas


In a season where body diversity took a back seat, Ester Manas's creations stood out. Models of all sizes walked the runway in colorful ruched dresses, skirts and sets with cutouts, and opera gloves.

The label is helmed by Ester Manas and her business partner, Balthazar Delepierre, both of whom studied at La Cambre in Brussels, Belgium, with Manas gaining experience working for Balenciaga, Paco Rabanne, and Acne Studios before launching the brand. Many of their pieces are designed to be one-size-fits-all, meaning they accommodate European sizes 34 to 50 (roughly American XS through 3XL).

It was definitively the most size-inclusive show in Paris, and the brand is currently working to expand sizes even more for future collections.


Weinsanto


Victor Weinsanto made some of the most fun clothing seen at Paris Fashion Week. Think: colorful bodysuits, little black dresses with wild headpieces, and sculptural hats that merged the surreal with couture skill. It's no wonder that Weinsanto is now under the Dover Street Market Paris umbrella, and also nominated for the LVMH Prize.

This season's collection theme was Murder in Paris, and a cast of characters including dancers and friends of the designer walked in the show, with Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu (Sylvie from Emily in Paris) closing the show in a matching hat and dress.


Pressiat


Pressiat distills gothic glamour into a mix of over-the-top silhouettes that often reference Victorian style. Founded by Vincent Garnier Pressiat, who runs in the same circles as offbeat fashion icon Michèle Lamy, the label is now in its third season and just keeps getting better.

The fall 2022 show featured body-positive artist Michaela Stark. Other models wore dresses that trailed real hair down the runway, larger-than-life faux-fur hats, shield-like glasses, and trompe l'oeil body dresses. It all felt very early 2000s-meets-John Galliano for Dior, only looking forward to the future.


Mr. Saturday


Founded by Joey Gollish, the Canadian brand Mr. Saturday showed digitally at Paris Fashion Week this season with a focus on vintage-inspired fabrics, oversized silhouettes, and tailoring with an edge. The androgynous collection was full of streetwear-forward staples for all genders. Gollish took inspiration from Kraftwerk, the German electronic band.

This brand is one to watch for outerwear—you need only look to the extreme padded leather moto jackets, checkerboard Sherpa coats, and cognac leather trench coats to see that. On the womenswear side, unusual shapes took form, such as structured evening hoods, crinkled sleeves, and plush leather bombers paired with floor-length maxi dresses.


MaisonCléo


Even if the name MaisonCléo doesn't ring a bell, you've likely seen the label's pieces on your favorite influencers. The slow-fashion brand does weekly drops of things like little tie tops with sweet collars, frilly summer dresses, and knitwear, all of which feel intrinsically French. Marie Dewet founded MaisonCléo with her mother, and they work together with a small team of seamstresses.

For fall 2022, the designer held her first-ever runway show in Paris, composed of sheer dresses, chunky knitwear, and beach-ready dresses all handmade and ready to purchase on the website immediately following the show.


Kenneth Ize


Born in Lagos, Kenneth Ize is reinterpreting traditional West African fabrics through a high-fashion lens. The designer has gained momentum and a small cult following for his work—and it doesn't hurt that Naomi Campbell has walked his show in previous seasons.

Watch Ize for his structured, colorful suits, which have become his signature. This season, the designer also started to experiment with other silhouettes and techniques, from knitwear to denim short-shorts and oversized, dark outerwear.

Newsletter

Related Articles

PanaTimes
Close
0:00
0:00
2 earthquakes in Turkey killed over 2,300 people
U.S. added 517,000 jobs in January, snapping five-month string of slowing employment growth
Powerful Earthquake Strikes Turkey and Syria, Killing More Than 1,300 People.
Turkish photographer Ugur Gallenkus portrays two different worlds within a single image. Brilliant work
Tennessee Bill Would Imprison People for 3 Years If They 'Lie' About Rape to Get an Abortion.
Charlie Munger, calls for a ban on cryptocurrencies in the US, following China's lead
EU found a way to use frozen Russian funds
First generation unopened iPhone set to fetch more than $50,000 at auction.
WARNING GRAPHIC CONTENT - US Memphis Police murdering innocent Tyre Nichols
House Speaker Kevin McCarthy said he will block Reps. Adam Schiff and Eric Swalwell from serving on the House Intelligence Committee
Almost 30% of professionals say they've tried ChatGPT at work
Interpol seeks woman who ran elaborate exam cheating scam in Singapore
What is ChatGPT?
Bill Gates is ‘very optimistic’ about the future: ‘Better to be born 20 years from now...than any time in the past’
Tesla reported record profits and record revenues for 2022
Germany confirms it will provide Ukraine with Leopard 2 tanks
Prince Andrew and Virginia Giuffre Photo Is Fake: Ghislaine Maxwell
Opinion | Israel’s Supreme Court Claims a Veto on Democracy
Moonwalker Buzz Aldrin Gets Married On His 93rd Birthday
Who’s Threatening Israeli Democracy?
Federal Reserve Probes Goldman’s Consumer Business
China's first population drop in six decades
Microsoft is finalising plans to become the latest technology giant to reduce its workforce during a global economic slowdown
Tesla slashes prices globally by as much as 20 percent
1.4 Million Copies Of Prince Harry's Memoir 'Spare' Sold On 1st Day In UK
After Failing To Pay Office Rent, Twitter May Sell User Names
Lisa Marie Presley, singer and daughter of Elvis, dies aged 54
FIFA president questioned by prosecutors
Britain's Sunak breaks silence and admits using private healthcare
Hype and backlash as Harry's memoir goes on sale. Unnamed royal source says prince 'kidnapped by cult of psychotherapy and Meghan'
Saudi Arabia set to overtake India as fastest-growing major economy this year 
Google and Facebook’s dominance in digital ads challenged by rapid ascent of Amazon and TikTok
FTX fraud investigators are digging deeper into Sam Bankman-Fried's inner circle – and reportedly have ex-engineer Nishad Singh in their sights
TikTok CEO Plans to Meet European Union Regulators
France has banned the online sale of paracetamol until February, citing ongoing supply issues
Japan reportedly to give families 1 million yen per child to move out of Tokyo
Will Canada ever become a real democracy?
Hong Kong property brokerages slash payrolls in choppy market
U.S. Moves to Seize Robinhood Shares, Silvergate Accounts Tied to FTX
Effect of EU sanctions on Moscow is ‘less than zero’ – Belgian MEP
Coinbase to Pay $100 Million in Settlement With New York Regulator
FTX assets worth $3.5bn held by Bahamas securities regulator
A Republican congressman-elect is under investigation in New York after he admitted he lied about his education and work experience.
Brazilian football legend Pele, arguably the greatest player ever, has died at the age of 82.
Hong Kong to scrap almost all its Covid rules
EU calls screening of travellers from China unjustified
US imposes Covid testing for visitors from China
Ukraine President Volodymyr Zelenskyy Addresses Joint Session of Congress - FULL SPEECH
Where is Rishi? Chancellor Jeremy Hunt's excuses about the UK's economic challenges just don't make sense
Former FTX CEO Bankman-Fried finally arrested in Bahamas after U.S. files charges
×